Steel Waves – The Tao Of Surfing

Steel Wheels

When we were young we thought heaven was dropping-in on the face of a beautiful wave…

At 60 my friend exhibits the same form of his youth: intent, patient, deliberate, aggressive. Not attack but elegant engagement with one of nature’s wonders—the perfect wave. For him the perfect wave could  be a smooth long 8 ft right-break in Costa Rica or a short 2 ft point-break at Pirates Beach on Galveston Island. He engages both with the same devotion to perfection the same quest for heaven. And in either case he’ll outlast anyone half his age.

Surfing enables us to see beyond through intense physical contact with nature—washing over us, carrying us forward, slapping us silly. It changes how we see. And that’s what surfing and motorcycling have in common.

JBM waiting for a set

JBM catching a wave

JBM dropping in

JBM dropped in

JBM bailing

JBM taking off

Kody D catching a wave

JBM and Kody D

JBM seagulls

3 seagulls

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